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Fès is one of the oldest of Morocco's imperial cities. The Idrisid dynasty founded it at the end of the 8th century, and the walled old town, Fes el-Bali, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1981. Its lanes are a dense maze, closed to cars, climbing and dropping along the valley of the Oued Fès.
The city is known for scholarship and craft. The Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, is usually described as one of the oldest continuously operating educational institutions in the world, and the medina still has working tanners, coppersmiths, weavers and potters. Fès rewards slow walking more than a checklist.
Best time to visit
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for walking the medina. Summers are hot and dry, and the lanes hold heat. Winter is cooler than coastal Morocco, with rain and sometimes cold nights, so bring layers and shoes that cope with wet stone.
If you are visiting a craft site that depends on daylight, such as the tanneries, go in the morning. The best light for photographs comes before the middle of the day.
Getting there and around
Fès-Saïss airport has flights from several European cities. The train station in the new town is on the line that links Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Meknès and Oujda, so Fès is easy to reach by rail from most of the country. Buses and grand taxis fill in the rest.
Cars cannot enter most of Fes el-Bali. Taxis stop at the main gates, Bab Boujloud being the best known, and from there you walk. Porters with handcarts carry luggage to riads, and some donkeys still work the narrowest lanes: step aside when you hear them. Because the medina is so tangled, many visitors hire a licensed guide for the first day, then explore alone.
Neighbourhoods
Fes el-Bali
The old medina, founded in the Idrisid period. It holds the Qarawiyyin, the madrasas, the main souks and most of the traditional guesthouses.
Fes el-Jdid
"New Fès" dates from the 13th century, when the Marinids built a walled royal city west of the medina. It includes the royal palace gates, the Mellah (the old Jewish quarter) and a long main street.
Ville Nouvelle
The French-built new town, with wide avenues, cafés, the train station and most services. It is the practical base for travellers who prefer modern conveniences.
Borj Nord and the hills
The viewpoints north and south of the medina, including the Marinid Tombs, give the best view of the whole valley.
Top things to do
Bou Inania Madrasa
A 14th-century Marinid madrasa with carved cedar, plasterwork and a courtyard that visitors can enter.
Attarine Madrasa
Another Marinid college, smaller and quieter, with fine zellige in the courtyard.
Chouara Tannery
The best-known tannery in the medina, where hides are cured and dyed in stone vats. Viewing is from terraces in the shops around it.
Qarawiyyin and Zawiya of Moulay Idris II
Both are active religious sites. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but you can see parts of the exterior and the doorways from the street.
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts
A restored caravanserai that houses woodwork and everyday objects, and gives a good sense of how the medina was organised.
Bab Boujloud and the Batha
The blue-tiled gate marks the usual entry into the medina, and the Batha Museum nearby holds Fassi ceramics and carpets.
Marinid Tombs viewpoint
The ruined tombs on the hill north of the city, at sunset, show the whole medina laid out below.
A day trip to Volubilis and Meknès
The Roman ruins at Volubilis and the imperial city of Meknès are both within a half-day journey of Fès.
Food to try
Fassi cuisine
Fès is known for refined cooking, with careful spicing and sweet-savoury combinations. Many families still cook according to the Fassi tradition.
Pastilla
The Fassi pastilla is a flaky pie of spiced meat, usually chicken or pigeon, with a sugar and cinnamon top.
Tagine and couscous
Look for tagines with preserved lemon and olives, or with prunes and almonds. Couscous is traditionally served on Fridays.
Bissara and harira
Bissara is a thick broad-bean soup, harira a tomato and lentil soup. Both are everyday meals in the cooler months.
Itinerary
One day
Start at Bab Boujloud in the morning, follow the main lanes to Bou Inania, then Attarine and the Qarawiyyin exterior. Spend the late morning at the tanneries, and finish the day at the Marinid Tombs viewpoint at sunset.
Two days
Add the Nejjarine Museum and the Batha, a slow afternoon in the craft quarters, and Fes el-Jdid, including the Mellah and the palace gates.
Three days
Use the third day for Volubilis and Meknès. Alternatively, head into the Middle Atlas for the cedar forests around Ifrane.
Practical tips
Wear comfortable shoes with grip, and carry water. The lanes are steep and often uneven, and a half-day walk covers more than it looks like on a map.
Many shops near the tanneries will offer a free entry in exchange for a look around. It is fine to browse and leave without buying. If you hire a guide, choose one with an official badge, and agree on duration and price before you set off.
Dress modestly in the medina and ask before photographing people. If you do get lost, ask a shopkeeper rather than a passer-by who volunteers help, and head for a main gate.
